After spending 3 weekends in a row exploring the bouldering one gully over, a couple friends and I finally made it into Penitente Canyon and I found the inspiration i needed to finally sport climb: This 100 foot boulder.
Thursday, November 30, 2006
On Getting Over It.
The Visual # 1
The Visual # 2
photos: Keith Ladzinski
"Roof on Fire" v5 Roadcrew, Rocklands, ZA
Wow, so this particular problem is so classic. I mean, your climbing under an arch! It starts on the opposite side of the roof and traverses perfect incut crimps with a toe-hook opposition (see visual). The crux is holding the swing and having the stones to stand on top of this problem. i first saw this problem in a Prana add of Michi Treisch many years ago, and always wanted to climb it. I did.
The Visual # 3
photo: Keith Ladzinski
"Jaws" v5 at the Alpha-Farms, Rocklands, ZA
No highball here, but hard for the given grade I thought. Although probably low-odds, the chance of falling off the 50 foot cliff 2 feet behind the pad is enough to hold on a bit harder.
I waited till dark to send "Jaws" so that I couldn't see off the cliff behind me. The Darkness helped Keith expose this beautiful 3/4 moon as well.
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
I had the great honor of interviewing one of my climbing heros, Jim Holloway, over lunch last winter. Here are a few of the questions I asked him
Andy: You established what is known as the "Big Three" boulder problems on Colorado’s Front Range. They are; "Slapshot" on Dinosaur Mountain in the Flatirons, "Trice" on Flagstaff Mountain, and "Meathook" at Fort Collin’s Horsetooth Reservoir, all three of which are un-graded and remain un-repeated. They could be the world’s first v12 and v13 boulder problems. Tell me about these problems.
Andy: Will you ever shoe-up and go bouldering again?
Jim:The cerebal nerves in both my legs are dead, when I get up in the morning I have a hard time getting up and down the stairs. Driving is kind of interesting when I can’t tell were the pedals are. I can’t feel my feet. I’ve had 70 some stiches put in my leg over the last year from three different cuts I didn’t even feel happen. They even stiched them up without novicane. I can take an electric drill to my feet and there is nothing there! I often get phantom pains, I feel pain even though my sensory nerves are all dead. For me to get back on the rock would be a disaster. It would be difficault to handle for me mentally. My brain thinks I can shoe up, but my body knows I can’t.
Andy: Do you have any words of wisdom for a young climber like myself?
Jim: Number one is always have fun. Don’t take climbing too seroiuously that you become a slave to it. I saw people so plugged into climbing, that they couldn’t get there minds around anything else. By the time they got out of the car to climb they were so worked up, so intense about climbing, that they couldn’t enjoy the expiereince . I think that holds a lot of people back. I think those people should re-learn how to just relax, and enjoy what they are doing. Ya know, we’d never talk about climing, even on the way to the climbing areas! Intenseness can hold ability back, I truely believe that. Jim Michaels and I used to always stop at lakes and throw rocks on the way to go bouldering. Why the hell woiuld we do that? Well because we just enjoyed doing it, see? It would drive our friends crazy, and it really showed me the importance of enjoying other things. Go fishing! Be serious about what you do, but don't let it comsume you. If you one day become disabled, like me, you’ll miss the fun with your friends much, much, more than a piece of rock, trust me. Take it slow. The routes I miss the most are the easy ones.
photo: John Gill
A Fear of Creaky Heights
Thursday, November 16, 2006
Dinner Sender?
Due to the diet of world class climbers it can be very hard to feed them. I have been chosen to the Specimen team not only to assist production and media but because of my career as a chef. Believe me feeding nine hungry climbers dinner on two small electric burners is not easy. Therefore I had to Grill most nights in order to be able to cook all the food together.
It was a live and learn basis for trying out the local meats especially with protein high on the list of needed nutrients. For instance the chicken here is amazingly cheap, easy to grill, versatile with different ingredients, delicious and easy to digest. The 5 key components to making the athletes happy. If on component is off it sometimes won't work. For instance the ostrich is cheap, easy to grill, and delicious. But it is not very versatile in another dish and though it is very lean and healthy it is not tender and can be a nightmare to digest. The performance the next day often shows me the results. I learned the trick to it all quickly. Cook the meats as planned but double the evening's starch ratio. Don't like my grilling and you can gorge yourself with as much rice and vegetables as you can eat. Shopping for a team this big can be a headache as well. Really no one gets what they want and sometimes that is a good thing. If I got what was on the grocery list every time Daniel Woods would pack chocolate bars and potato chips for lunch every day. I am essentially guarding this circumstance very carefully. The health and hygiene of the team and it's members is very important when living in such tight quarters together.
Pick up the new Urban Climber Magazine to see my full feature length article on Chuck Fryberger
6:30 - 7:00. Phone calls to South Africa to work on Cars / House / Customs Time change makes this 4 - 5pm SA time.
7 - 7:30. Breakfast, watching FOX news... the most entertaining and least accurate news channel on TV. Laugh at FOX news.
7:30 - 8:30. E-mail. Always the endless details to take care of.
8:30 - 8:45. Assemble wherewithall to have a day at school.
9:00 - 9:30. Ride bus to school, study and talk on Cell phone while on Bus.
9:30 - 11:00. Music Theory II. wish I had more time to compose music.
11 - 12:30. Aerobic workout at the PE building.
12:30 - 1. Eat Lunch while making phone calls.
1 - 2:15. Performance Art and Experimental Music Class
2:15. vow to push the limits more in my creative work.
2:15 - 3:00. E-mail / study / cram session
3:00 - 4:15. Digital Music Techniques Class.
4:15 - 5. Audio Engineering Society Meeting.
5 - 8. Paradise Rock Gym. Train with Sarah and boulder.
8 - 9. Head Home and make dinner.
9 - 10. fight falling asleep while working on projects for tomorrow's classes.
10 - 10:30 talk with Sarah
10:30 pass out. Dream about boulders
"Diamonds on the Soles of your Shoes"
Perison Park, Colorado. Justin Jaeger on one the best problems in the state. The problem is cleverly named for the crux swing move shown here at 15 feet. As your feet cut, you must reach high for a sloper out left. The soles of your shoes swing right out from under you every time and directly face the Diamond of Long's Peak, 14,200 feet. It is as terrifying as it is electrifying. "Diamonds on the Soles of your Shoes", v6/7, has seen 5 ascents. FA-Eric Decaria 6/06
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
The Finding and Establishing of "Shosholoza"
Ahh..., to say i had a hand in the finding of the one of the best and hardest boulder problems in the world would be silly, when it fact, it's funny really.
Sunday, November 12, 2006
As Specimen's promoter, assitant director and audio technition I hereby announce once again
Chuck Fryberger's "Specimen" set to Debut in High Definition @ The Boulder Theater on November 28th, Tickets on sale now!
Fate, Dead People, and the Probability of Boulders
I often wonder how when i walk up to a perfect climbable boulder: "What are the fucking odds of this seriously?" Of all the factors that have to go into the creation of a perfect boulder problem the probabilities have to be lower than they are! You mean to tell me I've never seen a dead person or a black bear in the wild but I can randomly stumble across lifetimes of boulders with just enough small holds to get me to the top after precisely 10 tries, within 25 miles of my house. You tellin me that I can set-up camp in the random pitch-black Utah desert and when I wake up Justin and I can just mosie across the street and find this boulder!? Bullshit. No Way. I'm calling it fate and running with it.
Allen's Park, the Past, and the Present
Allenspark East Bouldering barely matters. Why? Cause you weren’t there when it did.
As bouldering areas are found and developed, many more fall into the past. The founders Mike Freischlag and Curt Frye took me there over a few weeks last summer to reclean some holds.
When Mike and the late Skyler Crane, who died in a motorcycle accident a few years back, found a day of sport climbing at the Iron Clads, a crag east of Allenspark, a bit uninspiring they went looking around the forest and found the bouldering. Good work boys, solid shit. Of course I’ll find out more than ten years later, but nothing’s changed at these places, hardly anyone has even been there since. The area is o.k. to today’s standards, but good enough to be held secret at the time.
In the Picture here is a friend Kevin Murphy on The Mammoth Rub Boulder, (lets just call her big boned), the Mammoth Rub was one of the many boulders in the area held sacred at the time of the area’s development. Matt Samet, the area’s premier developer, said, "at one point during the time we were developing Allenspark my friend was taking people up there to show them the area. At the time I was very proprietary of the place, for no good reason. A complete ego-manic." Matt laughs at the recollection. " I told her, your not taking those people up there, I put up 98 percent of the problems, and I get to say who goes there and who doesn’t! I was being such a prick." With great ego, and a healthy dose of good fun, Matt would culminate to calling himself "Allen" because "this is my Park. " (Classic) "The rest of the time they slagged the shit out of me! The slagging is evident in the names of the best problems.
Allenspark East was and I guess still is; just another bouldering area. I found that a little story of a place helps it along. There are problems being put up, problems to be found, problems unrepeated, and people to tell you the stories of ‘em. I wanted to hear the stories from the developers and maybe learn something myself. But it was by watching the guys trying there hardest to climb Skyler’s memorial route, a problem way above their level, I got all the beta I needed on why this place is special. Like any area on any other day, it’s about blood, sweat, tears, and a little slagging of your friends past and present
Fred, Belief, and My Jumpshot
I spent Fred's last day in the Rocklands with him. Right up until we hiked out in the dark with enough time for him to pack, sleep and fly back to Switzerland. When climbing with him I'm like a fucking magnet for his energy. Every word he said, every gesture or remark that comes from him, is soaked up like a sponge into my already overloaded brain. My respect for him is only personified by the respect the respected have for him. He is the man, but you knew that already.
I have such high respect for Fred as a boulderer that I must have looked pathetic too him. The 3 years I've been praticing the sport was obvious too him and probably quite painful to watch. But I thought I am Andy, and he is Fred. I can't help that, I am a student and he is Michael Jordan. Well turns out that he knew I couldn't dunk a basketball from the foul line, and probably never will. So he gave me some pointers on my jump shot instead. "Use your feet Andrew!", he'd say.
What attracted me most to quitting my job and flying across the world, only to get to climb a few times with Fred Nicole, was the unsteady focus, respect and belief he has in the sport that I love. Bouldering is his life too and i want to know what the hell he still gets from it. Well save your money because it is no real secret. Climbing gives him focus and climbing gives him belief. We all need these things to escape our struggles, and he is no different.
Here a competetive Fred is trying to figure out a not-so-classic problem Chuck beat him up just moments before, as his wife Mary, is begging him to just give it up and leave, because she is getting cold and hungry. Like a kid ignoring the dinner bell, Frederic Nicole just wants to play for right now. "Just one more try honey."
photos:me