Friday, June 29, 2007

Blast from the Past. "Calamity Corner Simulator."

"Calamity Corner Simulator" we put up around 2000/2001. This is up at the Gateway Area, about 10 minutes uphill and slightly south, over a talus bench from the top of the PB Boulders in the Flatirons. The same crew — Trip Coffin, Greg Coffin, Josh Deuto, and I — had put up the problem "Calamity Corner", on top of West Mountain in Hueco Tanks, and this problem had a similar aspect — high, non-landing, hanging arete/corner. You get a jug up high, but you need to go for it with authority." -Matt

photos: Matt Samet Collection

Blast from the Past. "Megalith."

"Megalith" is slightly uphill and a bit northwest from "Calamity Corner Simulator" above the PB Boulders, on a free-standing spire/boulder with classic Fountain sandstone huecos on its west face. The crux is relatively low — 15 feet or so, but then you pretty much just start soloing on 5.10/5.11 territory above there. I did it and Greg did it, and I think we played on a more direct line to the right and maybe did it??? -- or maybe it was too mossy." -Matt

photos: Matt Samet Collection.

and a nice sandy landing.

Thursday, June 28, 2007

Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Hey buddy,

...could you please tell me how to get to the scary, breathless, big-eyed town of "Cruxville?"

Sunday, June 24, 2007

$20 you'll never see!!!

So I bet Daniel $20 that he couldn't send Tommy's Arete 1st try blindfolded. If fact, so blindfolded that his entire face had to be covered so that he couldn't breath either. I was sure to win when Laura walked him slowly to the boulder and placed his hands on the starting holds. He climbed it. I lost.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

Sticky Fingers.

Taken by the poperazzi, is a short video of I on a boulder problem at Red Cliff called "Sticky Fingers." Watch it with sound and you may find random connections.

Click here to expose me


Chuck working a project in the Flatirons.

Sunday, June 10, 2007

With a little help from friends.

Phillip Benningfield waiting for a freak cold-front to climb the first ascent of "Dawn" at Penitente Canyon. "Dawn" climbs a serious of brilliant small pockets up a bullet 20 foot gently overhung face (from a sds down and right of the spotters) over a leg-breaking boulder that could (a) send you and your spotters over another 15 foot drop or (b) wedge you between the 10 foot deep, 2 foot wide cravas straight below. Phil chose (c) and it was the correct one.

Trix. Rabbit Mountain.

Friday, June 8, 2007

Thursday, June 7, 2007

Chuffer. Gross Resevoir.

The man is all over the place.

Sunday, June 3, 2007

Rocky Mountain Highball

I am pleased to be part of a very special project called "Rocky Mountain Highball." This project is the brain child of Scott Neel and I after many long meetings and many shots of whiskey.
Upon completion of Specimen, in which I was Assistant Director, I had learned much of what I know from Director, Chuck Fryberger, and Director of Photography, Keith Ladzinski. I was anxious to make a another film, almost immediately. So was same of Scott, who had just completed producing an award winning, independent comedy called, "The Mini." So ,we put our heads together with final team-member, and producer, Alden Short and within months of meetings and plannings, we were high off the ground. (Pun intended.)

This is the greatest team of filmmakers and athletes I could imagine possible, and having all been inspired by such documentaries as "Riding Giants", and each being fans of highball boulder problems, the connections were immediate.

"To document Colorado highball bouldering and offer insight into why we are drawn to climb them."

We have now been in full production for about 6 weeks. We will continue busting our asses until the fall of 2007 to complete the filming of Colorado's most majestic highballs.

production photo: Andy Raether. First Ascent. "Vim."

Justin Fish

...cruising his first V8 at Wolcott, CO.

This problem (may warrant 4 stars) unludes all of the following: A pure line, perfect rock, perfect landing, perfect setting, friendly holds, thoughtful, cryptic moves, a high crux and a stimulating finsh. Nice one Jfish.

Naomi Guy working a project