Sunday, February 24, 2008


First ascents and left open projects from the Flatirons this weekend. The best problems are always yet to come...

Wednesday, February 20, 2008


Resonated - to have amplified vocal sound by the sympathetic vibration of air.
Paul Robinson shown here making the first ascent of his new Eldorado Canyon classic. Overlooked for years due to unobvious holds and its position over South Boulder Creek, Paul and I gave this arete a good look a few weeks back and decided to wait till the creek froze over to try it. Due to warm weather, we missed that window. But this afternoon, along with a psyched TJ Burchfield, we decided to spare a few pads to the water. After an hour or so of cleaning and about an hour of working the moves another new problem was established in Eldo. It is definitely of the highest of quality for the grade (V9) in Boulder.

Thursday, February 14, 2008

Bring it on!

Gettum son! Do work on Saturday P.Rob! Home town represend!

Sunday, February 10, 2008


Heidi Wirtz points our way to the boulders in Eldorado Canyon. "I think the boulders are over here." and "No, wait, they are over there." Women of Trad Climbing are soooo bossy!

When we finally did make it, we found this guy cleaning the snow off the top of his project with a stick. If you see this man in the woods...RUN!!!

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Andre Difelice

Andre Difelice from Fort Collins is psyched. He is a great young talent with an infectious positive attitude. After giving him a tour to the classic "Honeymilker" yesterday, i really felt inspired for the first time in a while to climb hard again. I remember years ago thinking every boulder problem at hand was the best boulder problem in the land. The thought of getting off work to go climb on it was enough to make me happy. I need more in my life than only that now, but Andre, he doesn't. What a feeling.


There seems to be a moment, when some of the best climbers in the world pull onto their project, that it is known; this is the burn. I have felt it many times and think for the natural simplicity of the situation at hand, it is a spiritual wonder.

You hold your breath for them. Sometimes, if you know it is the burn, you don't even look at them during the crux moves. The world and lives of everyone around now depend on it.

The silence is broken first by the sender, with either the slightest early smile of conquer, or by a recharging burst of decibels. Either way, you smile. You know you do, after all, the world isn't gonna end. Not today. And now, somehow part of you as a spotter, photographer, or spectator get to enjoy those last fews moves with him. And then, I think what feels best for everyone including Paul, is enjoying the 3 things that keep us humbled and distant through it all: A fresh breath, a big smile, and warm sunshine.

For all people, who are pushing their limits and chasing this feeling, you will always be an inspiration to the people around you. If what can happen in a dark little hidden corridor outside El Paso, Texas can reach people on the other side of the world, then what little thing can you do today to reach just one other person?

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

32 seconds.

It seems so purified in my mind thinking about Kevin Jorgeson on his midnight stroll up the east face of the Grandpa Peabody Boulder. A short memorable moment against the biggest harvest moon i've ever seen rise and the quietness of the the valley floor. I set up my camera to capture this, knowing still, that it is impossible to actually capture time. Time is funny like that. When you try to reach for it, it is already passing you by. This may be my favorite thing about life. It is also my favorite thing about photography. I had Kevin hold his position on the route for 32 seconds to expose the night and Mount Tom. I watch as the shooting star burns out over the right side of the frame and it reminds me that this moment isn't actually frozen.

The sound of the shutter closing wakes me up from my dream. 32 seconds of time holding on for me.

The shot was chosen for a 2 page spread in the "Basecamp" section of the newest issue of Climbing Magazine.

Monday, February 4, 2008


Here are a few spin off shots from a page I did for Urban Climber Magazine this issue. It has been cold and wet here in Boulder and I am not a big fan of winter. But, so it goes...