Sunday, December 3, 2006

The Sleeping Giant

Hidden in the far corner of North Mountain was an undone boulder problem that climbs the under-belly of a 50 foot boulder. A sleeping giant. Chuck took me to the project, because he likes to try it every time he is in Hueco. He has tried the project for many years, hoping maybe one day he would stick the giant 45 degree dyno to the lip of the boulder.

The problem starts as a jump start off a 4 foot boulder into good holds that eventually lead into a giant Hueco, one that if turned right side up, could easily be a kiddie pool. A luxurious one at that. The five or so moves it takes to climb into, and out of, this massive hole sets you up for the dyno. (see Jason Kehl photo)The move is committing and difficult. Stick the dyno and you must finish with another 30 feet of overhanging 5.12 with no landing to even speak of. After many days of effort this winter, Chuck's "little" project saw numerous attempts by Chris Sharma, Jason Kehl, and Dave Graham. Graham sent the line eventually, and names it properly "The Sleeping Giant" v12. Moments after establishing what is easily one of the best problems on North Mountain, the area was closed by the Park Service due to the boulder's proximity to natural rock art. And the giant sleeps. Again.

photo 1: Jason by: Unknown
photo 2: Chuck & I by: Justin Jaegar

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